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胡同的名字叫百花深处

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利玛窦明朝末年写北京的尘土说:“Few streets are paved with Bricke or stone, so that in Winter dirt, and dust in Summer, are very offensive: and because it raineth there seldome, the ground is all crumbled into dust, and if any wind blow, it enters every Roome”。到了光绪间,Harry de Windt说,英国谚语谓英国人死前要吃一大堆灰尘,北京人嚥最后一口气之前吃得更多:“If we, in England, must eat, according to the proverb, a peck of dirt before we die, I feel convinced that the inhabitants of Pekin swallow at least a hunderdweight before their last hour. The dust of Pekin is, next to its smells, its greatest curse...”民国二十五年,Peter Fleming把北京当牛津:“Peking - in this, as in several other ways, curiously resembling Oxford - can usually be relied upon to be characteristic”。然后是一九六六年十年浩劫之前的景观,James Cameron清晨五点钟陶醉在雾里的北京,说是彷彿步入明清水墨的淡彩之中,柔美而阴森:“At five in the morning Peking has a disembodied air; its strange pearly quality achieves no sort of shape in the half-light; its outlines are blurred and misty; it is rather like existing within a seventeenth century Chinese water-colour. It is lovely, but eerie”。文革之后的一九七九年,一位澳洲商人说北京灰濛濛,真该有一批油漆推销员来做做生意:“You know what this place needs - a few good paint salesmen”。

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